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“ Ik roz apni rooh se poochha , ki dilli kya hai, to yun jawab main keh gaye , yeh duniya mano jism hai aur dilli uski jaan.”
– Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib
What else could I have started with, if not Ghalib, when it comes to Dilli. The first person that comes to my mind is Ghalib. Ghalib’s Dilli still carries the legacy of loving their beloved Dilli. Ghalib’s Dilli i.e. the purani Dilli will never fail to surprise you with all it’s charm, no matter how frequently you visit it.

# How to reach?
The nearest metro station to Chandni Chowk is Chandni Chowk on yellow line of the Delhi metro. Other metro stations near Chandni Chowk area are Chawri Bazaar on yellow line , Jama Masjid and Lal Quila on violet line. One can take a rickshaw from there or if you are a walking enthusiast , then exploring the streets of puraani Dilli is strictly advisable. Commuting by your private vehicle should be avoided at any cost 


– गली है दिवानों कि दिल्ली
The aura of Chandni Chowk is gonna mesmerize you again and again. It will never stop surprising you with a new place everytime you go there. Chandni Chowk is finely divided into various bazaars. For instance, the KHARI BAOLI market is Asia’s largest spice market. There is nothing that is not available in this area , from Kinari bazaar to Krishna market, everything is in abundance.

– Dariba Kalan
Dariba Kalan hasn’t changed much since the earlier times. It is the market which will make you feel royal with it’s rich jewellery, reflecting the Mughal culture. One can spot people in awe of the wide array of silver jewellery in display.

– Kinari Bazaar
One can find designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee , shopping from the streets of kinari bazaar. The accessories include gotas, ladoos , embroidery material etc.

– Gali Paranthe Wali
The famous paranthe wali gali sells 55 different variants of paranthas , which are definitely worth a try . The smell of paranthas will draw you towards one of the shops located in the area. It’s a bit too expensive yet filling.

– Katra Neel and Katra Hardayal
Both the markets are quite equipped with all the kinds of suit material and saris that have ever existed . One can find beautiful embroided saris lined up at a very cheap cost. From shops to showrooms , all are very well placed in an area of about 500 metres . Seeing the glitters and the charm of this place ,one feels like getting married.

-Hidden Gems
Havelis and other aesthetic places like the NAUGHAR LANE can be spotted unknowingly. One can bump into one haveli or the the other just by mistake. You never know what you are passing by. My personal experience to NAUGHAR LANE was interesting too. NAUGHAR LANE has got nine houses with Jaini residents and a Jain temple at the end of it. It has got a community hall too. One can call it as a small , self – sufficient picturesque colony.

Havelis can be found inside a small door amidst the chaotic Bazaar. The much-hyped Dharampura haveli stands as a perfect example of modernisation amidst the streets of puraani Dilli. ( It takes a bit too much in order to get access to it’s premises)

– Ghalib ki haveli
Ghalib ki haveli, which was once the residence of Mirza Ghalib , stands as a renovated version of it . Ghalib spent his last year’s in this haveli. As you step inside, you can actually experience a strong vibe that the place is surrounded with. It is as if Ghalib is trying to communicate through the walls and the air. It stands as one of the most finely preserved historical sites.

 Dilli dilwalon ki
I feel it’s all a rumor about dilliwaalas that they are not at all similar to their name. The kind of stereotype one carries in mind for dilliwaalas is something which is time and again proved wrong at this place. You will be surprised by the people and their warm nature.

– Where to eat?
Chandni Chowk is filled with places to eat. From Mughlai cuisine to chaat papdi , everything seems just a hand away in this place . Chhole bhature of Gianis , naan of Kake di hatti , dahi bhalle of Nataraj, paranthe and lassi from paranthe wali gali are some of the most famous places to eat. One can find almost everything available in every second shop. Sweets like daulat ki chat, rabri , gulab jamun and faluda kulfi will make you fall in love with this place over and over again.

– Jama Masjid
“Jama Masjid was once auctioned by a British official.”quotes one of the resident from the adjoining area. Jama Masjid stands as one of the most splendid mosques on this planet Earth.
The area surrounding Jama Masjid has got eateries like Al-Jawahar and Karim’s to experience one of the most delicious non vegetarian food like kebabs and stew that one can have during the course of his life.
Street food is purani Dilli’s specialty. One should empty his mind of all the hygiene ka keeda before entering this place.


1. Koochey nahin dilli ke, auraaq-e-musawwir hain
Jo shakl nazar aayi, tasveer nazar aayi
-Mir Taqi Mir
These are not Delhi by-lanes, these are artist’s canvas
Every sight I see looks like a painting

2. In dino garche dakkan me hai bade qadr-e-sukhan
Kaun jaye ‘ZAUQ’ par dilli ki galiyan chor kar
-Md Ibrahim Zauq

3. Ey Mushafi, na inse kabhi jee lagaiye
Zalim ghazab ki hoti hain yeh Dilli Waliyan

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About Tanu Dabral

Hailing from Delhi, but the roots are Pahadi. By degree, I am pursuing Bachelors in Arts , political science. I keep a deep interest in literature and historical places, and what best can suit your passion when you live in the city which has experienced everything from history to war.

Purani Dilli has always been my happy place, a place where everything seems beautiful. A place which I cant help but adore . The life of Old Delhi will force you to come back to this place again and again. It's a place where Ghalib's presence can still be felt in every गली-मोहल्ला, in every smell you inhale, in every step you take, in every abandoned haveli you see. One just can't get enough of this place.

THE Pakki Dilli Waali blog, PDW with love, is an expression of my alter-ego which indulges in the everyday life of Delhi metros and culture feast.

This blog is straight from the heart of Delhi vali Nari. I am born and brought up in Delhi . I have seen Delhi change over the years. So, here I am sharing my experience and helping people to explore Delhi.

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